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How We Work

Depths.

 The old driveway,old tarmac,old concrete,vegetation and the soil sub-base that is to form the new driveway, path or patio will be removed to a depths of around 250mm (10 inch) depending on the driveway ground that you are excavating. If the ground is soft then we may have to dig deeper. The finished new driveway,path or patio needs to be 150 mm (6 inch) below any damp proof course that you may have on your house or garage. A fall of at least 1:60 needs to be established to allow water to run away to a drainage point. Before digging out the area to be paved it we need to know the size of block we're going to be laying. These measurements are based on using a block paver that has a depth of 50mm. There are though, 60 and 80 mm pavers available for areas that will recieve heavier vehicles. 80 mm sized bricks are normally used for commercial paving projects.

Edges.

 Edge restraints to the whole perimeter need to be considered when doing the groundwork's. The edge restraint could be the side of a house or an external pavement, but where there is no solid edge to work to, a kerb restraint needs to laid. Any edging kerbs need to be bedded on a concrete bed to a depth of approximate 100 mm (4 inch), they usually need to hunched up behind with concrete at an angel of 45 degrees , this stops the kerbs from moving. Any inspection chambers (manhole covers) also need to be set in place. Advise should always be sought especially if the cover is to take the weight of a vehicle. Always set the cover to the correct height and set in place with cement or concrete. A string line between 2 finished levels should help with this.

Hardcore.

 We apply the stone (hardcore stone) to the whole area. When ordering our stone it is important that we get the correct stone for the job, (most cases we use Mot type 1 stone). The stone needs to be at a sufficient depth that when compacted there is still enough height left for the block paving and the screed sand. Example. If we are using 50mm block pavers and 50 mm of sand the finished height of the stone needs to be 100mm below the finished level.We compact the whole area with a heavy plate compactor or whacker plate at least 10 or 11 times or until we feel the area is solid.

Grit sand.

 We always use grit sand and not building sand when laying block paving on sand. The grit sand supports your paving better than normal building sand. and allows for a better drainage should you get a penetration of water into your paving. Grit sand usually arrives in bulk bags. keeping it neat and tidy alongside your home.

Choice of paving.

 We have a huge variety of block to choose from!

Sand.

Sand screeds can be done with a number of different methods from the best method we use is a few old timber latts,to the more sophisticated method of using a purpose built sand screed.

Laying the block paving

 We try to choose a dry day to lay your paving. (very hard, we know!. ). We Always try to work from several Packs of paving at a time to ensure an even distribution of colours and shades is achieved. We always try to work uphill when laying the paving as each block pavior then rests on the other and stops the blocks from spreading. We start from the longest straight run that we have to help with keeping the blocks uniformal.

Cutting the paving

 After all the block pavers have been laid , we need to cut paving blocks for the infill areas so that the paving is up tight to the finished edge all around the perimeter of the paving. Pieces of block paving that are less than a quarter of the size of the paver are best avoided so we leave them out.

Before any compaction of the paving takes place we first need to sweep clean the paved area. This stops any debris being vibrated down between the joints, thus distorting the laying pattern. Compaction will be done again with a whacker plate. This is to be done to the whole paving area 2 or 3 times. Particular attention is taken when compacting the edges. The paving edges need to be level to stop any trip points. Care is also be taken around sensitive areas such as walls , drains or inspection covers. we always use a rubber mallet or the wooden end of a lump hammer, to any difficult areas.

Kiln dried sanding of the block paving.



We always allow the paving to be completely dry before you apply the finishing sand. Dry sand needs to be used for the sanding as it then runs freely into the joints without clogging up. Kiln dried sand is always best as it is of a fine grade and dried in a kiln before being bagged so should be dry. Usually 1 bag of kiln dried sand is sufficient for about 10-15 square meters of paving. Once the whole area has been sanded, we sweep off any excess sand and save. Then we apply the plate compactor again over the pavement for a couple of times . Again use a mallet for sensitive areas. The dry sand will seem to disappear down the joints of the paving.We ensure the sand is filled to the top of the joints of the paving and sweep off any excess.

After our we've installed your dream drive/patio all thats left is for you to enjoy!

We carry out all sorts of landscaping work and any customer will recieve precise details of what their job entails upon request.










Copyright 2011 LJD Landscape and Paving, All Rights Reserved.
Wood Lane Farm, Gotham, Nottinghamshire, NG11 0LF

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